HYDERABAD CUISINE

Hyderabadi cuisine (Hyderabadi Ghizaayat), also known as Deccani (दख्खनी) cuisine, is the native cooking style developed in the kitchens of the Muslim aristocrats of the erstwhile Hyderabad State, India. The haute cuisine of Hyderabad began to develop after the foundation of the Bahmani Sultanate, and the Qutb Shahi dynasty centered in the city of Hyderabad promoted the native cuisine along with their own.

The Hyderabadi cuisine is an amalgamation of South Asian, Mughalai, Turkish and Arabic along with the influence of cuisines of common people of Golconda Sultanate. Hyderabadi cuisine comprises a broad repertoire of rice, wheat and meat dishes and the skilled use of various spices, herbs and natural edibles.

Hyderabadi cuisine specialties 

Lukhmi - is a regional non-vegetarian variation of the samosa, though it is shaped into a flat square patty. It is made from flour and stuffed with minced mutton or beef, known as kheema. It now also comes as vegetarian snacks. It's a interesting light bite item.

Hyderabadi Haleem - a popular dish of Hyderabad is a stew composed of mutton, lentils, spices and wheat. It originates from Harees, an Arab dish brought to Hyderabad by Arab migrants. It is usually only prepared during the month of Ramadan for the Iftar meal but now available round the year. One of the healthiest dishes, the Best in Hyderabad is at Haleem House in Moghalpura or Pista House in Nayapul area. Haleem can be served with chopped mint leaves, lemon juice, coriander leaves, fried onions, chopped ginger root or green chilies and editing with naan itsa complete meal. Don't miss while in Hyderabad.

 Biryani

Hyderabadi Biryani is world famous. 

Hyderabadi Biryani eaten with Onion Salad, Mirchi-ka-Salan and Dahi-ki-Chutney is just divine. The layer of meat is hidden under the layer of rice, the aroma beckons you to dig into the rice and grab the succulent meat. It is a celebration dish of basmati rice and mutton, along with yoghurt, onions and various spices. The Biryani is considered synonymous with the city of Hyderabad.

It is distinctly different from other variations of the Biryani, originating from the kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad. It comes in two main styles: the Kacchi (raw) Biryani and Pakki (cooked) Biryani, both of which feature aromatic basmati rice, marinated meat (usually chicken or mutton), and a blend of spices like saffron and cardamom. Do try the mutton biryani if you are a foodie !

Variants of Biryani I could not taste are :

Kalyani Biryani is a variant of the Hyderabadi Biryani using beef instead of lamb or mutton. The Kalyani biryani is made with small cubes of beef, regular spices, onions and many tomatoes. It has a distinct tomato, jeera (cumin), dhania (coriander) flavour.

Tahari, made by the Hyderabadi Muslims is a rice and meat dish. Unlike biryani in which rice is precooked and then layered with meat, rice in tahari is cooked in meat. Occasionally vegetables, more commonly potatoes, are also added. It is served with dahi ki chutney.

Both above Biryani Variants can be eaten at Royal Kalyani Biryani Tahari in Tolichowki.

Pathar-ka-gosht is a mutton kebab. It is named for the traditional method of preparation, on a stone slab. The meat pieces are grilled on a volcanic stone or unpolished granite. The spices are added once the meat pieces are heated and served with onions and mint chutney. If the mutton is of baby lambi, the kebab is mouth melting. Try this at Al Rahman in Moosabowli road.

Hyderabadi khichdi

The Hyderabadi version of khichdi is distinct from the many variants in other parts of India. It is eaten with kheema and is eaten as a breakfast item, as well as during the month of Ramadan for the Sehri meal.

While most khichdi preparations use toor or moong dal, the Hyderabadi version uses masoor dal. Also, turmeric doesn’t feature in the ingredients list although some people use it in the modern preparations. The colouring of the dish comes from the caramelized onions that are an important flavour of the dish. As opposed to the semi-liquid, moist preparation of khichdi elsewhere in the country, the dish made here has a drier texture, and each grain of rice stands out. It is a different gourmet experience meat - masoor dal - caramelized onions taste dances on your tongue. Yummy !

Natu Kodi, meaning country chicken is a rich gravy made with different spices. The typical village-style recipe is cooked on a wood fire in mud pots. All the ingredients are mixed and slow-cooked to perfection for a delicious, smoky flavour. Natu Kodi is enjoyed with minapa garelu, also known as medu vada. This dish ca be had at Kodi Kura Chitti Gaare restaurant.

Khubani-ka-Meetha - Apricot pudding, topped with almond and cream. My all time favorite after lunch. 

Double ka meetha- Bread pudding topped with dry fruits, a derivative of the Mughlai dessert shahi tukre.

Gil-e-firdaus - A variant of kheer made of bottle gourd. The name literally translates into "the clay of paradise". Arre Bhai, dudhi halwa hai!

Faluda - A dessert made of shredded vermicelli noodles with rose syrup and milk. It is better than Badshah in Mumbai's Crawford Market.

 Hyderabadi Irani tea available at Irani cafes.

Some restaurants to visit

1.Near Lakdipul Chicha’s brings you authentic Hyderabadi delicacies including The King Of Hyderabadi Food, the tasty, zingy and mouth watering ‘Hyderabadi Biryani’

2.Paradise himayat nagar Paradise Biryani is a renowned restaurant chain in Hyderabad, India, famous for its delectable and flavourful biryani dishes, including the Hyderabadi Dum Biryani, served with succulent meat or aromatic spices, and often considered one of the city's culinary treasures.

3.1944 Hocco Vegetarian Restaurant (earlier Minerva) at Jubilee Hills

4. Kritunga Restaurant, authentic Andhra food. At punjagutta road.

5. Kodi Kura Chitti Gaare, chain of restaurant for Andhra nonveg

6. Dwarka at Lakdipul for Udupi type meals.

7. Shah Ghouse shwerama at Lakdipul.

HOUSEWIFE…… IN A COOKING ZONE !

 

HOUSEWIFE…… IN A COOKING ZONE!

Pl note: Mother in law = MIL, Daughter in law = DIL

I don’t know why they call the Lady of the house “A Housewife”. This woman who comes to this house after her marriage to the Man of the house or one of the Men in the house starts learning the ways or way of life of this family. She becomes an integral part and begins to work on making this House to a Home. She must be called Home Maker and not a Housewife …….yes, Now in last few years people have recognized Her and have started saying, rather the Women have started saying “I am a Home Maker”.

Interesting anecdotes of how the housewife learned cooking from their mother-in-law or came to the married house learning from her mother. The mother’s cooking training helped to initially tide over any frowns or taunting when she first entered the kitchen nervously. If she was good at what she cooked then normally very few appreciated or used to say “at least my son will get food (mark the word food….not good food)” How improper of the in-laws. And if she was not up to mark then god save the bride from taunts like “see mother has not taught her anything”, mother in law saying “god knows when I will be relieved of this chore”. (translate both these taunts in your language to get that Punch)

Over the period this housewife becomes seasoned player and now (in some cases) can tackle the taunts & smirks efficiently. She develops her own style of cooking while adapting her mother in law’s recipes, she understand the taste of the family (most of the time forgetting her own likings), some housewives bend to please all family members by preparing variety of dishes but some discipline the household into submission and eating whatever is served (I like this attitude). She shows her pleasure by creating delicious dishes but if not in mood then her proportion of salt or chillies or sugar goes haywire, signaling red flag to all!

The names one gives to vegetable dishes often created confusion eg Batatyachya kacharya (sliced potato dish) would be Batatyachya Kapi (fried potato wedges), Pitahle (thick besan or kulith preparation) also called Pithi (watered down version), Telavarchi Bhindi (fried ladyfinger dish with ground spices) also called Paratleli Bhindi (sauteed ladyfinger with onions dry), Puran Poli (made in 2 types…1. Stuffed in flat chappati 2. Stuffed in thick rotla) etc. The new bride would make her own version and mom in law would be taken aback with the dish. A very popular snack Batatawada of Maharashtra is also known as Aloo Bonda (south) or Aloo Chop (East) so a Maharashtrian girl marrying into Bengali family or in Kolkata region would be wondering Aloo Chop must be a cutlet but when MIL makes it, her surprise reaction is like “आयला हा तर बटाटावडा ”. One housewife told me how she lured her small kid into eating Brinjal & Potato bhaaji (Vaangi batata) by cutting the potato in half & making cuts in it to look like table….called it Tabla Vaangi (the boy liked table instrument). Crazy idea! Another confusion with the Indian Bread tawa roti in Maharshtrian household was & still is like….Brahmins /Saraswat call it Poli while many others call it Chappati (Poli for them is Puran Poli !)  

A good relation between the Mom-in-law and Daughter-in-law would result in a coordinated cooking and at times cover for the shortcomings in the dish. As long as the focus of the Housewife was to satisfy her Husband’s taste buds she normally had happy going. For being a good cook one has to love food and its various avatars that can be created.

The recipes handed over generations are churned out in most households by the housewife with expertise acquired over the years of cooking. Their skill to deviate from the original (shortcuts) need to be appreciated and termed as innovative. The dishes changed colours /richness /spice as per the household health….the prime concern of any housewife /mother. Which profession requires so much precision, correction, perfection and continuous innovation…..? yeah, it is A Profession but without remuneration !

Over the years the housewife has evolved from purely a women in the house for cooking and feeding many mouths to slowly smaller families, but, still with a restricted role of managing the house & kitchen then a few ventured into jobs and managed the office & kitchen. The need to satiate the hunger will remain forever but the Men are slowly coming to help the womenfolk (in cities mainly) in either partly managing the house/kitchen chores (mechanization has come to their aid….washing machine, microwave). A great thanks to Corona Virus who awakened the Male Gender to the efforts taken by Women and forced them to be part of the household chores. Now many are getting used to it.

The Housewife to Home Maker journey is now being recognized. The anecdotes of various DIL are interesting. Irony is DIL (heart) is short form of Daughter-in-Law many have shown no feelings to DIL, broken DIL’s spirit and “DIL ka dard koi samaz na paaya”.

Some girls get married into a different caste and then the two cooking styles come into play. The normal dialogues that take place between MIL & DIL …’at my mother’s place we don’t cook like this” and retorting the MIL would say “ok but my way the taste is different and all like it so learn it” One housewife experience is interesting, she was a Brahmin got married to a Kasaar community guy (vegetarian to a diehard non-vegetarian household) and here is a woman who has never eaten non-veg has to face non-veg cooking daily. A big learning awaited her. But she was lucky to have MIL cooperative and also her SIL (sister in law) who was from Malvan (fish eaters, coconut base cooking). She started learning out of no choice but there came a twist. She got pregnant and during this period the smell of fish cooking or mutton gravies made her crave and she started liking and eating too the non-veg dishes her MIL prepared. Over the period she learned all three cuisines Brahmin (pure veg), Kasaari (coconut based, shellfish prominent) and Malvani (coconut, red chilli and anything non-veg that is edible) and today after 30 years she is an awesome cook and has developed fusion of all 3 styles making her signature style.

Some dishes “Cauliflower Kharawani (खारवणी) ” (large floret cooked in spices & coconut milk tempered with mustard seed), Kolambi Bhaat (prawns marinated with ginger garlic red chilli paste, typical house malvani red masala sautéed with onions, add rice and cook.) Aloo Paratha (boiled, spiced mashed potatoes mixed with wheat flour and rolled) a very easy and quick hunger douser. These are no frill typical housewife recipes.

Another housewife told me a story of how name of a dish can be deceptive. “Raspoli (रसपोळी ) ” for the unintiated might be Aamras-Chapati or Malpua (fried flat bread soaked in syrup) but in actual this Saraswat community dish is Coconut milk flavoured with nutmeg, sweetened with jaggery to which was added fresh from the tawa hot phulka…..bingo your Raspoli is ready. She said it was like the rich brother of Milk-sugar-phulka. Then another dish “Piwali Aamti (पिवळी आमटी ) ” is equally a misguiding name. It is not a dal (aamti Marathi) but it is a typical Saraswat Fish Curry (some also call it Kalwan… कालवण) made with coconut milk, red spices & any fish. She told that the Saraswat kitchen’s entire menu revolved around fish….green coconut masala, red chilli paste & coconut masala these two basic masalas then watered down to the requirement of the Fish. In any Maharashtrian fish eating household the housewife used to religiously separate the head, tail, small slices with hole for making Kalwan alias Piwali Aamti alias Spicy Curry. One trick the MIL taught the DIL to manage a group of guests (vegetarian as well non-vegetarian guest together) was to make the ground spice ball (वाटपाची  goli)  with dried or fresh grated coconut, whole spices, red chilli, turmeric ground on a stone grinder and the make two balls (portions), one small for vegetarians and another for non-vegetarian. The non-veg could be anything mutton or chicken or fish. But for the vegetarians she made Besan (gram flour, ginger, garlic, chillies) small square shaped pieces, steamed them and put them in the Ground masala (वाटपाचा masala) gravy….lo behold an exotic veg dish (without vegetables) was ready, it was called “Wadiche Sambhar वडीचे सांबार”….why the “sambhar” she still doesn’t know. A chutney of green chillies, fresh coriander, tamarind juice, salt is a quick fix that can be eaten with rice if you are dying of hunger (her MIL in Marathi ‘भूकेने मरत असाल तर ह्याचा वापर करा).

Some MILs are very strict and do not want to deviate from what they have learned in kitchen and will want the DIL to follow the same. In this scenario the DIL is in troubled waters and many times the food may not be to her liking. The new DIL was a rice eater but the MIL household (4 persons) are chappati eaters consuming 30 chappatis at a time. Poor DIL sweating all the time has to manage. There are household where if a guest comes during Lunch or Dinner time, MIL will insist them to have meal and the DIL had to restart as many a times her meals used to be ready for her family. So in such cases, one housewife told me “a door bell ringing during meal time used to send shiver down her spine”. MIL used to tell her “तुला काय करायचंय त्यात, सगळं cooker करतंय नाsss” (everything is cooked in cooker, what you have to do? don’t make faces” Such were the times guys.

Bengali women in most households had a cook /maharaj. The women would give the cook vegetables cut in the style (chopped /sliced/diced /shredded /cubed) the dish was to be made and then the cook used to do the seasoning /cooking. Whereas in Maharashtra where the household could afford a cook or a maid who cooked, the cook/maid would do all the cutting etc and the Housewife /Malkin would do the tempering /cooking. Gujarati & Marwari household have a maharaj who does all the cooking under guidance or no-interference by the Lady of the house.

The Marwari housewives had the ghunghat tradition so one house told me a funny story. She said “The ghunghat in house was an irritant for me and on this topic I always had a cold war with my MIL. One day I was in the kitchen preparing Panchmela Daal (dal with 5 pulses) and I had almost finished the preparation when my MIL happened to come to the kitchen. Looking at the Daal she screamed ‘hey भगवान कोनसी बिमारोंवाली दाल बनाई, रंग कितना फिका है’. I knew as I had intentionally done this. I removed my ghunghat and I too screamed “ऊई मां ये क्या हुआsss, मां जी, घुंगटमेसे तो लाल दिख रहा था, अब क्या करें ? ” MIL said “जाss है ठिक करती हूं. एक काम ठिकसे नहीं होता इन छोरीयोंसे ”. I scooted out of the kitchen with a big winning smile”. Of course in the earlier days in Marwari community the DIL was not supposed to answerback any elder so normally harmony was maintained and many households had this discipline.

Many funny instances must be happening in the Kitchens and housewives do “Jugaad” and manipulate family members to eat or like a dish, this particular dish takes the cake. A kid did not like Brinjal and in the house ‘Vaangi Batata’ (brinjal with potatoes) was a favourite dish. Kid liked Tabla (an Indian musical instrument) so the mother cut the potatoes in half, gave slits to look like Tabla, fired golden brown and added to the brinjal vegetable dish and named it “Tabla Vaangi”, the kid was happy, started eating the Tablas and slowly the brinjals. Salute the Maa!   

 

Some interesting dishes given to me by the Homemakers are (nowadays recipes are available on youtube)

Maharashtrian- Gulache Wade (jaggery fried flat breads), Vaalachi Usal, Vatpaache Mutton /chicken, Suka Jawla koshimbir, Ras Poli (phulka in coconut milk), Kulith Pithale /Pithi, Piwali Aamti, Wadiche Sambhar

Marwari – Gatte ki sabzi, Bharwan Aloo, Dahi wada, Moongdal Chilla, Aloo kohl ki sabzi

Rajputana – Laal Maas, Kota ki Macchli,

Bengali – Aloo Poshto, Bagare Baingan, Zholer Macch,

 

Tastes of Thailand.... crazy food

 

The Thailand country has rich heritage structures namely palaces, superb temples, meditation stupa, en number of Buddha statues from huge (gold /rock) to little (jade & emerald 12”), beautiful people always smiling, the streets busy in morning & evenings, Chinese /Japanese /North east Indian tourists mingling with the locals, Indian tourist groups in awe of landscape n structures, honeymoon couples in awe of themselves, Indian males (some) ogling at the females, shops clean and small eateries serving good local, Asian as well as European food, 7/11 supermarkets catering to all needs from coffee to scotch to bread to exotic cheeses to ready to eat food.

The food of Thailand is noodles, sticky rice, pork n beef, vegetables n greens in variety of combinations. 

MBK mall has unique food stalls and serving style. I picked up the debit card for 300 baht and proceeded to explore Thai food experience. There the stalls are lined up serving ducks (roasted /broiled /steamed) hung on the hooks with poor guys legs tied as if after all the cooking process they will run away. I asked the food stall server why you have tied the legs ? and I was in for a hilarious unexpected but very logical answer. He smilingly untied the legs of one duck and OMG...legs spread it was a vulgar sight and we had a hearty laugh. The ducks are served sliced or in mince form on rice topped with a barbeque sauce or own juice sauce (this has lot of melted fatty oil but tastes awesome). The rice eaten is typical small grain /sticky (apna malvani/goan ukda chawal type) and has a slightly sweet taste. The mince or diced duck mixed with soy, green chilli, spring onions & carrots and served along this rice is a great combination. One of the most popular thai dish is Guey Teow (noodle soup) primarily a nonveg soup made with rice or egg noodles mixed with either pork or beef or chicken. It is almost a meal. Pot souped pork with pokchoy leaves is soup to relish, the thin watery dark soup after eating the solids is supposed to be drunk straight from the bowl.

The malls food court is all of different aromas as you pass various counters. The pork counters are bit put off due to all parts displayed and typical harsh aroma of the skin. All stalls serve noodles /rice /soup based dishes. There are thai curry rice stall with 3 types of curries- red (red chilli based), green (leafy greens), yellow (coconut galangal) and then there are sauces for the various starters chicken (wings, legs), pork (meat, fried skin) duck (feet, legs), cubes of vegetables. It took 3 hours and 5 dishes to sample the food...yes sample as the portions are large. All this was in 300baht, damn cheap. The food court was swarming with people but I did not find a single Indian.....we are not used to raw display of meat n guts.

There are stall selling dried fish, prawn crispies, fish wafers, prawns rice chakli. Pork toast like chilly cheese toast comes with spicy minced pork on toast served with tomato sauce and cheese dip.

The roadside stall outside the mall and in market place sell all meats /fish in fresh & dried form, One can order noodle or rice or just order the meat or fish starters. I could not eat from these stall because of the odd smell.

There are nice restaurants serving steaks, I tried the filet mignon with pepper sauce. It was well done, sauce just as smokey as required and the accompanying sautéed vegetables complimented the steak. The tenderloin with dill sauce was also excellent. I tried the thai omelette Kai Jeow, it is created by frying whisked eggs in hot oil mixed with spring onions & fish sauce. It’s a delicacy.

The thai desserts are also different, many with coconut base (mind you the coconut does not like it does in India, it si almost tasteless( coconut cake with fluffy coconut icing was good and delicately sweet, Thai fried bananas (reminded me of Vasai Kela, large size), Thai black sticky rice pudding are some dishes one must try to feel thailand. 

Congo....unexplored cuisine !

 

Congo....unexplored cuisine.

Congo is a small country in the African Continent. It took 14hrs journey by Kenya Airways to reach my first African destination Lubumbashi via Nairobi. Congo is rich in minerals, primarily Copper. There are many mid budget or 3 star hotels in the town of Lubumbashi. The capital of Democratic Republic of Congo is Kinshasa. The major language apart from Congolese is French. One must know French to communicate or navigate thru the country.  The weather was excellent between 10deg to 26deg C

Food habits are often linked to the region of origin: fish is a staple food for those living on the rivers, meat-heavy dishes for Congolese living in tropical savannah regions, while those living in wooden tropical areas primarily eat vegetarian food. It would not be possible to describe all the gastronomic diversity of the DRC as there is vast array of food, regional and French eaten and popular in Congo.

I had a great time enjoying the food and tasting local wines, beers. Let us begin exploring some of the unexplored cuisine of Congo.....jinga la la.

Liboke - 

It is a dish generally composed of boiled fish with tomato, salt, and chilli and wrapped in banana leaves which imparts the fish with their aromas. The addition of seasonings, garlic, celery adds to the flavour and everything is then put on a grill. The fish can also be replaced with chicken, pork or squash.

Pondu – 

is one of the most popular dishes throughout the country. The dish is made using prepared cassava leaves that are cooked in a pot, with or without spices. Some use oil, particularly palm oil—and spices like black peppers are added along with eggplants and scallions (spring onion). The taste is unbelievable with the aroma leaves infused with peppery tang.

Lituma - 

A popular accompaniment for a meal It consists of plantains (rwa banana) that are boiled and then peeled and pounded, mixed with aromatic spices and the mixture flattened in a dish, cut in squares and steamed. It reminded me of Kothmirwadi from Maharashtra or Besan wadi from Rajasthan.

Mbinzo (Caterpillars) –

Next to mushroom’s popularity, there are mbinzo (dried caterpillars). In Kinshasa, they are generally cooked with a light white sauce made of onions and a little oil with the essential red chili pepper. But mbinzo’s I ordered (didn’t have the guts to eat) were cooked in palm oil with diced vegetables, tomatoes, red chillies and lemon juice.

Ya Jean -

 it is smoked goat meat. The freshly slaughtered goat meat is seasoned with salt, pepper, chilli oil and the pieces are wrapped in parchment paper and then put on the grill. After three-quarters of an hour, the meal is served with fried plantains. This with cold beer is heavenly.

In Lubumbashi there are nice French restaurants and the food is awesome. I tried a few dishes:

Frog legs in Lemon Butter sauce –

thin but meaty legs, tossed in palm oil and the sautéed in lemon butter. This with a glass of wine went well.

Scallops of Beef with fries –

a very well done beef scallops, rolled with drizzled with brown dill sauce (real meaty flavour)  topped with cheese were a treat to eat. The fries of local potatoes were crisp and just about sweet.

Shrimp cocktail in Avacado –

 one of the best shrimp cocktail I had in years. It was fresh shrimps, the thousand island dressing perfect and avocado cooked just right served with crispy lettuce.

The food exploring will continue in my next trips to DRC.....Till then “Kende Malamu” (goodbye)